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Here's an astonishing statistic: According to UNESCO (the United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization), 60 percent of the world's most important works of art are in Italy and about half of those are in Florence.
The capital of the Tuscany region on Italy's northwest coast, Florence was founded in about 200 B.C. and was originally named Florentia—meaning "the flourishing town." |
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For centuries, rich noble families and successful merchants fought for control of the city, but by the late 1200s it had become increasingly democratic. In 1348, the plague decimated the population by half. Later in that century, the distinguished Medici family consolidated their power. Cosimo Medici became ruler of the city, and was the patron of artists such as Donatello, Fra Angelico, Brunelleschi, and Lippi. But it was Cosimo's grandson, Lorenzo, who is most responsible for Florence's legacy. After taking power in 1469, Lorenzo and his court encouraged a burgeoning of art, music, and poetry. They sponsored numerous philosophers and great artists such as Michelangelo, Botticelli, and da Vinci.
This renaissance was interrupted when the Medicis went broke and lost their power in the mid 1490s. Control was seized by Girolamo Savonarola, a puritanical monk who was finally burned as a heretic in 1498. Meanwhile, the Medicis strengthened their family power through marriage with Emperor Charles V, returned to Florence in the 16th century, and ruled the city for the next 200 years. In 1737, power passed to the House of Lorraine, and Tuscany was incorporated into the Kingdom of Italy in 1860. Florence was the capital of Italy until 1875, when the seat of power moved to Rome.
Florence was devastated in World War II when the retreating Germans bombed all of the town's bridges except the famed 14th century Ponte Vecchio that spans the Arno River...and they came mighty close to that one. The city was ravaged again in 1966—this time when the Arno flooded and heavily damaged many buildings and works of art. Using modern techniques, most of these treasures have been restored. Contemporary bridges have replaced those destroyed during WWII.
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Today, the city of more than 400,000 continues to flourish—to flourish so well, in fact, that you should avoid it in the sticky months of July and August, when up to 2,000 tourist buses arrive daily. Modern-day Florence is a major rail junction, as well as a commercial, industrial, and tourist center. The main industry is tourism.
It would take a book to do justice to all of Florence's highlights, most of which date back to the time of the Medicis from the 13th to the 15th centuries. But here's a taste of them.
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The Ponte Vecchio bridge is one of the most heavily traveled tourist areas, but you'll want to browse among the shops that line it for a gander at locally produced ceramics, glassware, leather items, and fine jewelry, or simply enjoy a big cone of Italian ice cream.
Within walking distance (and, in fact, almost all of Florence's landmarks are within an easy walk of each other) is the city's hard-to-miss Duomo. The enormous pink, white, and green facade and dome is the fourth-largest cathedral in the world and took almost two centuries to construct. Designed by Brunelleschi, the interior frescoes and stained-glass windows were the work of Donatello, Ghiberti, and other stellar artists. Nearby, don't miss a look at the famous bronze doors on the Baptistery.
Other churches containing masterpieces include the Church of Santa Croce (frescoes by Giotto, a crucifix by Donatello, and enchanting works by Rossellino and others) and the Church of Santa Maria Novella (with frescoes by Masaccio, Orcagna, and Ghirlandaio, as well as beautiful cloisters and a facade by Alberti).
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The Monastery of St. Mark contains some of the most exquisite works of Fra Angelico, while the Church of Santa Maria del Carmine is home to famous frescoes painted by Lippi, Masaccio, and Masolino. You'll find Michelangelo's Tombs of the Medici in the Church of San Lorenzo, which also features many works by Donatello plus the impressive Laurentian Library, which houses 10,000 manuscripts.
The Piazza della Signoria—the thriving center of Florence's political life for many centuries—has a loggia that resembles an outdoor sculpture garden. Here you'll find Cellini's "Perseus" and Giambologna's "Rape of a Sabine." The Piazza is also home to the Palazzo Vecchio, which has been the city's town hall since 1322. The Palazzo, which is guarded by a magnificent copy of Michelangelo's "David," was lavishly renovated by Vasari. The elevated "Vasari's Corridor" leads from the palace through the Uffizi Museum, whose extensive collection of paintings includes the works of Botticelli and others, across the Arno on the Ponte Vecchio, and all the way to the Pitti Palace.
The Pitti Palace was designed by the prolific Brunelleschi for the Pitti family, rivals of the Medicis...who eventually took over the property. This massive building holds much of the Medicis' extensive art collection. In lavishly decorated rooms, you'll find the works of Raphael, Rubens, and other Italian masters. Behind the palace are the spectacular Boboli Gardens. Built in 1550 and a wonderful example of Renaissance landscaping, the gardens include fountains, geometric borders, pools, tree-lined views, a grotto, and the Forte di Belvedere, built in the shape of a star.
Other places to view great art (if you still have the energy!) include the Academy Art Museum, featuring works by Michelangelo, and the Bargello Museum, which houses the most comprehensive range of medieval and Renaissance art in Italy. In the latter you'll find Michelangelo's "Bacchus" and Donatello's "David." The museum also contains the designs submitted by the ever-productive Brunelleschi for the Baptistery Door Competition, eventually won by Ghiberti.
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Do end every day of art browsing with a classic Tuscan meal. There are plenty of charming cafes sprinkled throughout the city and its piazzas. It has been said that Florentine cuisine is built around three basic ingredients: Tuscan bread, which is plain, unsalted, crispy-crusted, and light inside; extra-virgin olive oil; and wines made in the Tuscany region, including classic Chianti. You'll also find tasty meat and pasta dishes in Florence's eateries.
If you simply can't bear to leave this lovely part of Italy, consider buying a primary or vacation home. There is a wide variety of houses and villas available, both close to the city center and in the surrounding Tuscan countryside. For a fascinating account of buying and renovating a property in Tuscany, don't miss American poet Francis Mayes' lyrical and best-selling book, Under the Tuscan Sun.
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Story by Jacqueline Shannon
Photography by Michael Blassis
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